Recreating Smiley’s Iconic Iwakuni Soup Soba

Back around 1981-1982, we loved gathering at Smiley’s truck at the Marine Corps Air Station in Iwakuni, Japan, where he served up some of the best comfort food we could find. Smiley’s cooking was legendary, from his hot bowls of soup soba to steaming plates of fried rice, spaghetti, yakisoba, curry rice, and sometimes even grilled skewers. Each dish was simple yet unforgettable, packed with flavor that kept us coming back.

Smiley was a legend! His truck was a constant comfort, no matter how long or challenging our days had been. We could hear the music playing from his truck, like an ice cream truck trolls a neighborhood. We’d all go running, like kids. The aroma alone would draw a crowd, and the wait was always worth it. Smiley had a way of making everyone feel welcome, often cracking a smile or nodding as he handed over our orders. His menu may have been small, but each item was crafted with care, the kind of food that felt like a home-cooked meal in every bite.

The soup soba, especially, was something special. Smiley served it hot with just the right balance of flavors, from the savory broth to the fresh toppings that added a perfect crunch. And if you were lucky enough to snag a spot at the truck after hours, you’d sometimes catch Smiley in the middle of cooking up something off-menu, like his special stir-fried vegetables or an extra spicy version of the soup that packed a punch. Smiley’s truck wasn’t just about the food; it was about feeling at home, even far from home.

I can imagine those soup soba moments must’ve been something special. Smiley’s recipe was probably simple but deeply satisfying, with flavors that hit just the right spot. Here’s a recipe inspired by what he might have served up, keeping it basic but authentic to capture that “truck-side” taste in Iwakuni.

Broth
Smiley’s soup would likely be a light yet flavorful dashi-based broth. Here’s a way to get that right balance.
Dashi Stock: Start with 4 cups of dashi stock, a base made from kombu (dried kelp) and bonito flakes. You can make it by simmering a 4-inch piece of kombu in water for about 10 minutes, removing it before the water boils, and then adding a handful of bonito flakes. Let them steep, strain, and you have your dashi.
Seasoning the Broth: Add a couple of tablespoons of soy sauce for saltiness, about a tablespoon of mirin for a hint of sweetness, and a dash of sake for depth. Taste as you go and adjust to your preference.

Noodles
In Smiley’s truck, he likely used fresh soba noodles, as they’d cook quickly and keep a good chewy texture. You can find dried soba noodles at most grocery stores, but if you can find fresh, they’re worth it. Boil in a separate pot until they’re just tender (usually about 4-5 minutes for dried), then rinse them briefly under cold water to remove excess starch. This keeps the soup clear.

Toppings
Here’s where he probably added his signature touch. Classic Japanese street-style toppings might include:

Sliced Scallions: Finely sliced and added just before serving for a fresh bite.
Kamaboko (Fish Cake): Often a standard topping, slice it thinly and add it to the bowl.
Nori (Dried Seaweed): A small piece on top, just enough to give some umami.
Spinach or Bok Choy: Lightly blanched greens add color and freshness.
Soft-Boiled Egg: This could be a nice touch, halved and added to the bowl for creaminess.

Assembling
Add the cooked soba noodles to a bowl, pour over the hot broth, and arrange your toppings to make it look as enticing as Smiley’s truck version. Finish with a sprinkle of shichimi togarashi (Japanese chili pepper blend) for a little kick if you like.

Rumor has it that Smiley was a Japanese Kamikaze pilot. The war ended before he was called for a mission. Could this be why he was always smiling?

Let this bring a bit of Iwakuni back for you! What do you remember about Smiley and his great food?