In 1982, one of the best parts of being stationed at the Marine Corps Air Station in Iwakuni, Japan, was grabbing a meal from Smiley’s truck. Smiley’s cooking was famous among us. His menu had it all, from hot bowls of soup soba to fried rice, spaghetti, yakisoba, and curry rice. My favorite was Smiley’s shrimp fried rice! The dishes weren’t fancy, but they were packed with flavor and always hit the spot, making his truck a regular stop for so many of us.
Smiley wasn’t just the guy who cooked for us, he was part of our everyday lives. His truck was our little oasis after a long, rough day. You’d hear the music coming from his truck, kind of like the ice cream man back home, and we’d all drop what we were doing to head over. The smell would hit you before you even got close, and no matter how long the line was, we all knew it’d be worth the wait. Smiley had this way of making you feel like you belonged, always greeting you with a smile or a quick nod as he handed over your food. It wasn’t just a meal; it was like getting a little taste of home when you needed it most.
His soup soba was the stuff of legends. It came out steaming hot, with this perfect broth and fresh toppings that gave it just the right crunch. And if you stuck around late, you might catch him trying out something new, like stir-fried veggies or a kicked-up spicy version of his soup. Smiley’s truck wasn’t just about the food, though. It was about the connection, the comfort, and feeling like you weren’t so far away from everything familiar.
If you’re like me and want to bring a little of that magic back, here’s a simple recipe inspired by Smiley’s soup soba. It won’t be exactly the same, but it might take you back to those nights by his truck.
Broth
The base of Smiley’s soup was likely a light, flavorful dashi broth.
Dashi Stock: Start with 4 cups of dashi, made by simmering a 4-inch piece of kombu (dried kelp) in water for about 10 minutes. Remove the kombu before the water boils, then add a handful of bonito flakes. Let them steep for a few minutes, strain, and you’ve got your base.
Seasoning the Broth: Add a couple of tablespoons of soy sauce for saltiness, about a tablespoon of mirin for sweetness, and a dash of sake for depth. Taste and adjust to your preference.
Noodles
Smiley used fresh soba noodles, which cook quickly and hold a great chewy texture. If you’re using dried soba, cook them in a separate pot for 4-5 minutes, then rinse briefly under cold water to remove excess starch and keep the broth clear.
Toppings
This is where Smiley’s personal touch really shone. Here are some classic Japanese street-food toppings:
-Sliced Scallions: Add just before serving for a fresh bite.
-Kamaboko (Fish Cake): Thinly sliced and placed in the bowl.
-Nori (Dried Seaweed): A small piece for added umami.
-Spinach or Bok Choy: Lightly blanched greens for freshness and color.
-Soft-Boiled Egg: Halved and added for a creamy, rich texture.
Assembling
Place the cooked soba noodles in a bowl, ladle the hot broth over them, and carefully arrange your toppings. For an extra kick, sprinkle some shichimi togarashi (Japanese chili pepper blend) on top.
Rumor had it that Smiley was a former Japanese Kamikaze pilot, whose mission was never called. Maybe that’s why he was always smiling, grateful for life and sharing that joy through his cooking.
For anyone who experienced Smiley’s food, the memories are as vivid as the flavors.
What do you remember about Smiley? Sound off!
Smiley’s soup soba hit the spot if you missed chow hall hours. I don’t remember if the soba truck had set hours. I just remember hearing the loudspeaker belting out its beckoning tune. The hungry Marines would come out of the various workshops and offices near the aircraft hangars.
Here is a snippet of what the soba truck sounded like. It’s the same tune, but the one on Iwakuni base had a deeper tone. Sometimes the tune would kind of skip a beat and repeat the same couple of notes. It sounded like Smiley was scratching in his mini rolling kitchen. (I swear it)
https://youtu.be/KfsX97YCo58?si=9CyttQnuIzz1iSED
About the recipe. I distinctly remember a random Marine asking Smiley how he made the soup broth. He said, “pork bones”. That’s all I remember about the conversation. It was comfort food long before we even used the term. It was medicinal for those who had to crawl back to barracks from the Ville the night before after too many Kirin beers, or perhaps after several Taiwan Boogies.
I wonder how the term Soup Soba came to be, because Smiley served ramen. Pure classic tonkotsu ramen. It was not the highest quality, but we didn’t care. Heck, many of us didn’t even know the difference. We just slurped it up and got our bellies full.
Thanks for posting this memory. RIP Smileysan.
Three tours at MCAS Iwakuni (Nine years)